The Makings of a Lined Roman ShadeJanuary 23, 2010 at 4:56 am | Posted in decorating, sewing | 31 Comments
You will need:
lining fabric, face fabric, mounting board, screw eyes, shade cord, plastic rings, weight rod, white glue, staple gun, L-brackets, screws, cleat to anchor cord pulls, calculator, pencil, paper, and patience.
First thing is deciding on the placement of the shade. I wanted an inside mount so I measured the inside width and height of the window. Since the window was narrower than 54 inches, I knew I would just have to purchase fabric the length of the window plus enough for a fold over on the top and bottom. I allowed 3 inches on the top and 5 inches for the bottom. So 64 inches (inside height of window) + 3 (top fold over to attach velcro) + 5 (flap at bottom, weight rod pocket and 1/2 inch seam) = 71 inches. I always buy a little more so I have enough extra to square up the fabric.
If the window was wider than the width of the fabric I would have had to join the fabric to make it wide enough. I have had to do this before and it is nice if you can do something with the seams, like, add piping, or a contrast band or ribbon.
I chose a nice black, beige and grey stripe with a cream lining. Greige a new favourite.
I take great care to square up the fabric, otherwise it won’t hang straight in the window. Since there were various stripes I also centred them on the vertical. I cut the face fabric 33 1/2 inches wide and 71 inches long.
Next I cut the lining the same size as the finished blind size. In this case that was 27 1/2 ” by 63″. That makes it 6 inches narrower than the face fabric and 8 inches shorter.
After pressing, I placed the fabric face down and the lining on top. Centring it so there was 3 inches on either side and 3 inches down from the top and 5 inches from the bottom.
Next, I fold over 1 1/2 ” and press along one side. I then fold over another 1 1/2 inches and press again.
The picture above shows the 3 inches. The one below shows the first fold.
The next picture shows the second 1 1/2 inch fold over. I press and pin and am ready to sew.
After pinning both sides of the blind, I then sew them close to the folded edge.
The side seams are now done. On to the top.
Just as we did for the sides we do for the top. Fold 1 1/2 inches and press and again. Open out the second fold and
attach the soft side of the velcro with your machine.
At this point I do some hand sewing. I know that not everyone likes this but, I find it gives a nicer look on the finished project. I refold the 1 1/2 fold down and hand sew it . You won’t have a machine stitched line at the top that shows from the front.
The top is done and we just have the bottom to complete.
I fold and press a 1/2 inch seam.
Then I fold up the remaining 4 1/2 inches and press that. I then pin and before sewing I check that the length is good. If it isn’t for any reason. I can make this fold a little less and lengthen the blind or shorten it.
I then sew one line of stitching close to the fold and then one line about 1 1/2 inches below that for a weight rod. The weight rod (a dowel in this case) helps the shade hang nicely. I have used old ibeam tracks and copper pipes. Basically anything fairly narrow with some weight to it. I use heavier weight rods on larger blinds.
At this point you may need to get a calculator, a pencil and paper to figure out the placement of the rings. I like to have about 8 – 12 inches between the horizontal rows. On this 27 1/2 inch wide blind I used only 3 rows across. The vertical rows take a little more figuring and measuring. I measure from about an inch below the velcro ( the first ring row) and just above the weight rod pocket( bottom row of rings). This measurement was 56 for me. I then divide this by 8. This number could be more or less depending on the depth of the fold you want when the blind folds up. Larger blinds might look better with slightly larger folds. I took the 56 which nicely divided by 8 to give me 7. I ended up with 7 vertical rows 8 inches apart. I mark these points with a washable marker or dressmakers pencil.
I hand sew these rings on as well. I stitch into face fabric at least twice or three times and the rest just into the lining. I use matching thread and I double the thread. I sew the bottom rows with extra stitches because they hold more weight. It worked out that the rows where all on the black stripe this time. Whew.
The Singer Sewing for the Home where I first learned all this from has you sew these with a machine. “Attach rings by placing fold under presser foot with ring next to fold. Set stitch length to 0, and zigzag to widest setting. secure ring with 8 to 10 stitches, catching small amount of fold in each stitch. ” This might be faster but I tried it once and didn’t like the effect on the face fabric.
At this point you need to know if you want the cords to be on the right or left hand side. It is time to cut the cording in the various lengths you will need. Start with the row opposite to the side you want the pull. Tie a knot in the bottom ring and secure with a drop of glue. Thread it up thru the row leave enough to go across the top and down half way. Continue along on all rows.
(the dark spots are where I washed away dressmakers pencil what was in the wrong place. oops)
I have a handy man cut me a mounting board slightly narrower than the width of the window and about 1 1/2 inches by 1 1/2 inches. You can paint this the same colour as your trim or mine was wrapped in fabric already from the last blind I made for this window. It matched the lining so I left it alone. You need to insert screw eyes to line up with your vertical rows. I use L brackets to attach the mounting board to the window frame. I stapled the hard side of the velcro along the edge which will face out. Use lots of staples for this or when you need to reposition the blind you may pull the velcro away from the board.
Sew the weight rod pocket closed.
Hang the mounting bracket.
Velcro the blind on and thread each cord through the ring above it across and down to the side you want the pull.
All the cords will come through the last ring. Make sure the blind is hanging flat. (this was a little hard to do when I was standing in the window sill). Make sure as well the tension in the same on all the cords. Just on the outside of the screw eye tie a knot with all the cords so they don’t slip through the screw eye. I usually braid the strings from this point and find a knot cover or an interesting bead. (haven’t done this yet though).
I will at least cut the cords even. ..soon.
Last step, I promise. Attach a cleat.
And make yourself a lovely tea with honey because you deserve it. Well I do anyways.
I usually keep it all the way up for a few days in order for the fabric to form a memory. Really! It will.
I hope someone will find this useful. I have made many many blinds. Roman, hopple, large, small, sheer, heavy canvas, more than I probably remember. Feel free to ask questions. I would love to help.
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